OT: Travel: Montreal

by Grantland, y'allywood, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 11:06 (1109 days ago)

We are going June 17-19 for F1 Race. I think I have told ya'll, my daughter crazy for F1.

Any suggestions?

Ill prolly ask again as we get a little closer.

Tags:
travel

Make sure everyone in your party is allowed to enter Canada

by HCE, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 06:36 (1108 days ago) @ Grantland

My one attempt to visit Montreal, for a buddy's bachelor party, ended at the border, when it turned out the Best Man's DUI from from a few years prior precluded him from entering the country.

I thus have no useful information about Montreal, but I'll second Savage's point below about Montreal pastrami--it's vastly superior to the NYC Deli version.

Also, Albie, you are out. To clarify, I was trying to be

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 07:26 (1108 days ago) @ HCE
edited by Grantland, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 07:30

funny. Albie's clean.

LOL - Reminds me of my time crossing the CDN border

by Albie, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 07:46 (1108 days ago) @ Grantland

This was the summer of 1990 when us Navy guys were stashed in South Bend after graduating. Decided to raod trip to Toronto. My Dad had bought at auction in Florida, on my behalf, a 1983 BMW 320i confiscated in a DEA drug raid. We pull up to the border and there are 3-4 drug sniffing dogs and I immediately start to panic thinking there had to be drug residue in the car. We all used our military ID's in our passports even though I don't think we needed them and made it through. Might have been the scariest 15 minutes of my life.

BTW, those cars were great because they basically sat in a warehouse at Kennedy Space Center for a couple years awaiting the legal process to complete. Not sure if that is still a thing, but wish I still had that car.

Is that story in here?:

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 07:52 (1108 days ago) @ Albie

Were F'Og and Quigs with you? And you still go through!?!?

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 07:51 (1108 days ago) @ Albie

If so, I am calling BS on HCE's story. :)

Yes, they were!

by Albie, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 11:10 (1108 days ago) @ Grantland

However, it was not in the book. Quigs and I are mostly missing from that since we were out of Norfolk but I heard most of those stories before reading the book.

The Mexico story. Ay Ya Yai.

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 11:12 (1108 days ago) @ Albie

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That should have resulted in BP the scale of "The Hangover"

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 07:24 (1108 days ago) @ HCE

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Maybe the best restaurants per capita in North America

by Jack @, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 05:54 (1108 days ago) @ Grantland

Three of the best five meals I've had in my life were in Montreal, and I've only been there twice.

Better than NOLA? :)

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 05:55 (1108 days ago) @ Jack

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It's a tossup - those Frenchies know how to cook

by Jack @, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 05:56 (1108 days ago) @ Grantland

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And throw in a little Southern/Soul and man o man. But

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 05:58 (1108 days ago) @ Jack

I was born in NOLA and very biased.

I taught summer school at McGill many years --

by omahadomer, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 21:30 (1109 days ago) @ Grantland

I've probably spent close to a year there stitched together, but not really as a tourist. I had an apartment, a car, and a job.

That said, the city is a blast, especially in the summer. The Quebecois are nuts about F1 racing. If you were the for two weeks, I'd recommend taking the train up to Quebec City, but on a short trip just stay in Montreal.

With kids, stay away from St. Catherine's St. in the evening. Even outside the "establishments" they may see stuff you don't want them to see.

The tourist stuff should be plenty to keep you occupied for a couple of days. I went to a lot of Expos games before they moved to Washington. Attendance was so low at the end you could just drive up and buy a ticket 10 minutes before the game and get a great seat for cheap. And considering their payroll, they were pretty good.

Seeing a little of the "underground city" is worth a look, though it's more essential in the winters -- which are brutal. The apartment I used to live in if I wanted to go to the movies, the grocery store, wherever -- I took the elevator.

I really like the Quebec countryside and my French is good and you do find people outside the big cities that don't speak much English. In Montreal, everyone speaks good or better English.

The drive up and over Mont Real (I think the street is "Cote de Neiges") is well worth it. You can get a great view of the city. St. Joseph's Oratory is the largest church in Canada and is spectacular. I know they are doing some renovations so I'm not sure what's open. But it's well worth a visit.

One fun tip about Canada travel

by MattG, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 17:21 (1109 days ago) @ Grantland
edited by MattG, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 09:36

We went to Montreal and Quebec City over Thanksgiving 2019, and it wasn’t THEIR thanksgiving - to them, it was just a random Wednesday in November - so prices were pretty good

We definitely did Touristy Old Montreal, but i remember the following:

Montreal means “royal mountain” and there’s a mountain there called Mont Real and I’d never put that together before. At the top there’s a building with great views and they serve coffee and snacks

We stayed at hotel San-Sulpice and it was pretty nice. Very close to Notre-Dame de Montreal (EDIT TO ADD - this was the most striking church I've ever been in. it was REMARKABLE.)

The museum of fine arts was great.

Then in Quebec the Chateau Frontenac was incredible.

Seems like they have a different word for everything

by Dylan, Indianapolisish, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 06:31 (1108 days ago) @ MattG

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Also they have Ketchup flavour potato chips

by MattG, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 09:28 (1108 days ago) @ Dylan

It's just like America, but always just little bit different. Like if your grandmas house was a country. Poutine at McDonalds! Weird candy you've never heard of!

ONE MORE REC: Sucrerie de la Montagne was a lot of fun, we got to see this family
owned maple syrup... farm? is it a farm? Anyway, they have this big restaurant and they told us their whole story and we bought some syrup.

https://www.sucreriedelamontagne.com/en/

Quebec city was the first trip we ever asked "parlez-vous anglais" and gotten "non" back in response.

Oh if anyone goes to Quebec, the day trip out to Montmorency falls and to the Ille d Orleans was fun. Cassis Monna y Fils blackcurrant winery would have been WAY more fun in the summer, though.

https://www.cassismonna.com/en/

OH one more thing you can't fly with bottles of liquids in your carryon so having 1 checked back is worth it if you're going to a winery. That's kind of an all-purpose reminder, not Quebec specific.

But we had to ditch our blackcurrant wine AND a bottle of syrup at Montreal Airport Security so that sucked.

If I understand my Quebecois friends correctly,

by nedhead @, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 10:27 (1108 days ago) @ MattG

every sacred word that you have from the Bible is an extremely dirty word for the Quebecois.

Tabernack!

by ndbk32 @, Los Angeles, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 15:51 (1108 days ago) @ nedhead

Yep, they've appropriated the tabernacle as essentially an F-bomb. And there are others. I've been told it stems from the 70s when society started separating itself from the rigid structures of the Church and the younger generation came to express their distaste of their Church with new epithets. I enjoy wearing my t-shirt that simply says Tabernack! across the front. If anyone grins, I know they're familiar with Quebecois.

Sacre Calice!

by Jack @, Friday, January 28, 2022, 08:44 (1107 days ago) @ ndbk32
edited by Jack, Friday, January 28, 2022, 08:48

A guy I worked with in Toronto was an anglophone Montreal native (there are a lot of them in Toronto, but I digress). He said Quebecois swearing is as if English swearing never got past the 17th century, saying things like "Zounds!" and "'sblood!"

French in France prefer more earthy terms like "Merde!" and "Putain!" (which means the exact same thing as "puta" in Spanish).

Yea but:

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 10:02 (1108 days ago) @ MattG

[image]

Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether they COULD

by MattG, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 10:22 (1108 days ago) @ Grantland

That they never stopped to ask if they should

[image]

OMG. Is that real. I have actually eaten and enjoyed

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 10:25 (1108 days ago) @ MattG

the biscuits and gravy, though I am fairly certain they gave me cancer that will show in a few years.

But those look disgust.

(No, it's just one of the joke entries to their contest)

by MattG, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 10:50 (1108 days ago) @ Grantland

Lays once did a "create a flavor" contest and people could submit literally anything using a bag-creator mockup tool.

Orange Juice and Toothpaste was a big hit. I also remember "couch", and "leather upholstery". Looking online i see someone submitted "9 volt battery".

I think the winner was Thai Chili or sriracha or chicken & waffles or something though.

Jelly beans actually do it!

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 11:11 (1108 days ago) @ MattG

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Hotel San-Sulpice is nice

by ndbk32 @, Los Angeles, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 21:47 (1109 days ago) @ MattG

The summer I worked there, my apartment was just a few blocks away. Our visiting VIPs would stay at the San-Sulpice and were always quite happy. I finally spent one night there... my last night in Montreal and enjoyed it. Okay, I'm just reminiscing here, not adding any real value.

Interesting. F1 in Eurpoe has been on my bucket list

by Albie, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 13:37 (1109 days ago) @ Grantland

for awhile, but I hadn't thought of Montreal. Ok if my wife and I bunk up with you? I have a sweet blowup mattress.

Come on up! We were thinking about driving home

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 05:51 (1108 days ago) @ Albie

and taking a detour through acadia. You can drive!

Great stuff, thanks all!

by oviedoirish @, Oviedo, Florida, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 13:35 (1109 days ago) @ Grantland

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As an FYI...

by Domer99, John Wesley Powell's Expedition Island, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 12:59 (1109 days ago) @ Grantland

Jay created a tag for travel recs. It's great. Montreal has been a popular question and Savage has provided these helpful tips a few times.

http://bluegraysky.com/forum/index.php?mode=search&search=travel&method=tags

Oops! Sorry about that.

by Savage, Around Ye Olde Colonial College, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 13:33 (1109 days ago) @ Domer99

I should follow the instructions that I give my students about Ed / Piazza / etc. and search before I post.

What are you apologizing for?

by Domer99, John Wesley Powell's Expedition Island, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 14:24 (1109 days ago) @ Savage

I was just trying to give you credit for how helpful you've been whenever this topic has come up.

Really my fault. But thanks to everyone.

by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, January 27, 2022, 05:52 (1108 days ago) @ Domer99

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Any post about Canada should have unnecessary apologies

by Larz, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 16:31 (1109 days ago) @ Domer99

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Ha, eh!

by Savage, Around Ye Olde Colonial College, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 19:07 (1109 days ago) @ Larz

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Geez. Don't be SO repetitively helpful.

by BillyGoat, At Thanksgiving with Joe Bethersontin, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 13:38 (1109 days ago) @ Savage

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My old recs

by Savage, Around Ye Olde Colonial College, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 11:35 (1109 days ago) @ Grantland
edited by Savage, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 11:38

These are from an old post of mine, mostly from my wife who is a native Montréalaise. But take them for what they're worth, noting that they haven't been updated since probably 2016.

Hotels:
* She lived there for 25+ years, and I’ve always stayed with her or her family when visiting, so others are probably better to advise on tourist accommodations.

Food:
* The mandatory "must do" is [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schwartz's"]
Schwartz’s smoked meat[/url]. Northeastern Americans may insist that they understand pastrami and all that jazz, they're wrong.

* On a similar note, if you always found NYC-style bagels to be stale rock-hard bread with a hole, then you must try the completely different definition of bagel that Montreal offers. The two best in town are Fairmount and St-Viateur.

* Continuing cultural classic foods: Poutine.
La Banquise
is the gold standard for a million different varieties, but stupidly there's also something to be said for just the notion that this dish, practically unheard of outside of Quebec, can be found at just about any corner dive (hell, you can even upgrade your Chez-McDonalds combo to include one!).

* Foodie/nicer places:
Joe Beef
,
Au Pied de Cochon
,
Garde Manger
... be prepared to eat a lot of meat at most of these, and be prepared to get a reservation far, far in advance.

Booze:
* Liquor can, generally, only be purchased from government-run liquor stores, called SAQs -- either 'ess-ah-coo' or just 'sack'; beer and wine are available from SAQ, in groceries, and at corner stores / mini marts -- called dépanneurs, or just 'deps'.

* Ice cider is a local specialty, particularly maple ice cider.

* Unibroue was one of the first regional microbrews and they're still considered quite good. Perhaps their best known offering, now widely available in the US, is Fin du Monde.

* Bieres et Compagnie is a place that offers lots of beers from around the world, but also has some pretty good traditional Quebec fare (I'm partial to the caribou chili) as well as a sort of "higher class pub fare" (e.g. ostrich burger, or mussels specials).

* Benelux is Belgian style microbrew place, with their own take on Belgian "low" cuisine. (Burgers, "deluxe" hotdogs, and the like ... this certainly isn't to be confused with the nicer places listed above under food). The beer list is ever-changing, but always quite good, and often with amusing names, for instance "Ouate de Phoque", which literally translates as the non-sensical "Seal’s Fine Cotton" but when pronounced is nearly indistinguishable from "What the Fuck" pronounced in the local accent.


Activities:
* Walk around the base of the Mountain (Mount Royal), especially taking note of the "tam tams" at the Cartier monument. From there you can also head up the mountain, where there are plentiful trails and roads but also more hike-style options for going up through the woods. Also very walkable from the base of the mountain are the city’s multi-million dollar mansions at the base just on the Outremont side, and the now-gentrified-but-still-a-bit-hippie Plateau, which includes the McGill "ghetto" (not a ghetto at all, more like your typical pan-cultural university town vibe).

* The Vieux Port is one of the older parts of the city, and while today it is a bit touristy, there is a good mix of shopping, food, culture, and entertainment available all within close proximity.

* Walk through Atwater Market or Jean Talon market. Traditional produce/meat markets with some very nice stuff. A mix of old-timey bartering and more contemporary high-end epiceries makes for an interesting diversion in amidst a larger day.

* Churches - Mark Twain said "This is the first time I was ever in a city where you couldn't throw a brick without breaking a church window. Yet I was told that you were going to build one more. I said the scheme is good, but where are you going to find room?". It’s pretty true. There are many, many interesting churches in Montreal, including three basilicas: Reine-du-Monde which is modeled after St. Peter’s, St. Patrick’s, which is the Anglophone home of the Catholic Church in the city, and (because this is NDNation …) the Congregation of Holy Cross’s St. Joseph’s Oratory, which is more monastic than the others but still very interesting, with beautiful grounds and various shrines to Saint Brother André.

* The city has several noteworthy museums for the intellectual side. My personal favorites are the Pointe a Calliere archaeology and history museum of the city and region, McGill’s Redpath natural history museum, and the Musée des beaux-arts.

* Since I’ve now mentioned it a few times, it’s worth wandering around the McGill campus — even if only as a semi-direct route from the Mountain back to downtown. It isn’t too massive, but gives a nice mix of your traditional gated American liberal arts college campus like ND, while still allowing the vibrancy of an urban campus. The school, one of two Anglophone universities in the city, is often thought of as "Canada’s Ivy".

* The Biodome is a sort of indoor zoo built in a decommissioned athletics facility from the Olympics. It offers an interesting worldwide tour of climates and their flora and fauna. I found it very cool, along with the Botanical Gardens, but to be fair, my fiancee and I had our first date at the SB zoo and I proposed at the Philadelphia Zoo, so maybe we just like that kind of stuff more than the average person.

* Starting mid-June/July catch the always-fantastic International Fireworks Competition. Each week a fireworks demonstration team from a different country "presents" their bombastic artistic vision. There are lots of cool places to catch this — it’s possible to buy tickets and watch from La Ronde, the amusement park, but it’s also just as good to go for free and watch from a closed-off major bridge.

* Given when you’ve said you’re coming, it probably won’t be possible to see the Habs, but it’s still worth going and checking out the plaza with statues and historical markers of the winningest NHL franchise. (Note: there’s a massive supertower development project going on, so your mileage may vary on this one.)

* I feel obligated to put strip clubs and rave nightlife here, because every time Mtl comes up on NDN people always note the red light district on Ste-Catherine’s St. Whatever.

Logistics:
* A car isn’t necessary within the city, and in fact can actually be a burden both for parking and depending on what events are going on in town closing down key streets.

* The Metro and bus system is excellent. Like all cities, the buses take some getting used to, but the subways are impeccable in terms of organization and clarity. The city is very walkable, especially when combined with the good public transportation. One key warning: I’ve had trouble loading my metro card with a credit card that doesn’t have a built-in chip, so if you’re going to buy a pass, try to make sure to do so at a manned entrance so that you can conduct the transaction with a person if the automated machine fails you.

* They also have a bike-sharing program (a la Citibike in NYC or Divvy in Chicago) that makes for a fun bike along the river or through some of the less urban spots on the Island for a more relaxed recreation day (or to burn off some poutine).

* Imperative before confirming a time to check versus several of the key events in the city, which are awesome fun if you’re into them, but also will eat up hotel rooms and add lots of people in the city: Formula One race (June), Jazz Festival (June/July), Juste Pour Rire (July, but not as big a logistics crunch as the other two).

* The language barrier by and large isn’t one within the city. Almost anyone under 45 will speak at least passable English and those of that age with public-facing jobs will speak very good English. A distinct Montrealism is the greeting "Bonjour-hi", which is a general invitation to respond in whichever language you choose. The public transit will have announcements only in French, but it only takes a few stops to get the gist of "la prochaine station … (proper noun here that you can confirm on the map)", and menus are often bilingual and typically available in English versions if not. Unlike in France, Montrealers are typically pretty friendly about tourists and language — they will not in general be offended by being approached in English rather than French, and if you’d like to practice, they’ll generally be patient and understanding of your trying/butchering their language.

These are all great

by ndbk32 @, Los Angeles, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 12:01 (1109 days ago) @ Savage

Like you, my knowledge ends after 2016. But I think all the places you mentioned are mainstays.

I enjoyed neighborhoods like Mile End and the Plateau. They're a little more interesting and real than Old Montreal.

In Old Montreal, if you're looking for a good cocktail in a cozy setting, hit up L'Orignal. Michael will make sure you enjoy yourself. They also serve good food and oysters. Oysters are great in Montreal, by the way. I've also enjoyed Barroco in the same area. And Mandy's is a great place to grab a salad to offset all the meat and poutine you might otherwise be eating.

Montreal is the best.

Awesome guys. Printed these out and will save!!!

by Grantland, y'allywood, Wednesday, January 26, 2022, 12:32 (1109 days ago) @ ndbk32

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