Chicago Retrospective

by Joe ⌂ @, North Endzone Goal Line, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 09:23 (1229 days ago)

First off - I had posted previously on this, so thanks for everyone who came up with a recommendation! The wife and I just spent two weeks in Chicago, ate way too much, and wanted to give some thoughts.

First off, cultural shit:
1. We did a riverboat architectural cruise. I thought it was enjoyable, informational, and funny at times, though it was 75 minutes long and probably could have been 45. Probably not something kids would be into other than for the boat ride.

2. There was a post here about how kids would like the Field Museum, which I read as I was in the Field Museum and was like - what on earth are they talking about? Kids would hate this shit. I said this after I had only seen the stuffed bird part of the museum, which is boring. All of the new stuff is pretty awesome, and of course Sue is the main attraction. It's hard not to be stoked when you're looking at the T-Rex head and skeleton. Very cool trip.

3. The aquarium was alright. The beluga whales were the highlight of it for us, otherwise it received a B grade from us. If you've been to some of the better aquariums out there, it might be a miss for you.

4. The Art Institute of Chicago - if you're into art, this is pretty much a can't miss for you. I could have spent two days going through this and still felt like I had more to see. Amazing collection of impressionist and post-impressionist art. American Gothic and Nighthawks both get big billing here, but don't sleep on the rest of the collections. Very well curated and fun stop.

Food!

1. Giordanos beats Lou Malnatis. Neither are pizza.

2. Tavern style pizza is pretty great (not sure if there are places best known for this, but I ate it at D'Agostinos and it crushed).

3. Portillos is fine. Their hot dogs would be better with ketchup.

4. Alinea. I ate here last year and brought the wife back for this years. It's difficult to criticize Alinea because they're objectively pretty dead on with everything they do, but I preferred my first experience there. What seemed very whimsical the first time through felt very intense on my second trip - color, music, etc. The food is amazing, mind you - but the feel of the overall experience could have used a little lightness. Best dish of the night was a shrimp served multiple ways, with the heads stewed in a mace/nutmeg/foie/white sauce kind of thing. It was great. Michelin gives it 3 stars, and it's consistently voted in lists of best restaurants in the world, and it's hard to disagree.

5. Topolobampo - pretty great experience! They start you in a little sitting room for cocktails/mocktails/small bites, then transition you to your large table for the meal itself. Very high-end takes on traditional Mexican food, which was fantastic. Best dish of the night was their take on esquites (street corn). Michelin gives this 1 star, and that feels right on the money.

6. North Pond - the most "standard" of the restaurants we went to, it's set in a beautiful park location in an older building that just sort of screams Chicago at me. The service was on point, and it was a 4 course tasting menu with a few amuse bouche thrown in. The food was a bit uneven - my meat course the pork was pretty overcooked - but the flavors were good, if not particularly earth shattering or exciting. This was the most approachable restaurant from a price-point perspective. Michelin gives it 1 star, and I think it's kind of on the cusp. But certainly not a bad time out, and the setting is beautiful.

7. Elizabeth - I saved the best for last. This place was an absolute delight - though unexpectedly once I saw the location which is pretty sketchy. Playful, fun, really inventive cuisine - laid back atmosphere (like wear jeans and a tee-shirt if you want) blasting punk rock and the pogues while I ate. Every dish hit, and some absolutely wow'd - a couple made me feel similarly to how Alinea made me feel the first time, when I took a bite of something and it was completely not what I expected, and it's just really, really fun. Michelin gives it 1 star, and I have to assume they struggle with consistency, because I think it deserves a second.

Other stuff:
1. The game - yay, we won. Wisconsin fans are nice enough.

2. I miss living in a city with easy public transit.

3. The trivia scene is pretty solid! The Globe Pub is tough but a blast on Tuesday nights.

Tags:
travel

I’ll add a restaurant, having just been as well.

by Joe I @, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 15:20 (1229 days ago) @ Joe

We ate out 3 of the nights we were there. Pretty solid food all around, but the absolute standout of the weekend was Rose Mary, an Italian-Croatian joint near Fulton Market. Every single dish was simply outstanding, and a very good vibe to the place. The chef/owner is Joe Flamm, Season 15 winner of Top Chef and former executive chef of Spiaggia. Highly recommended for any locals looking for a new place to try.

Do tell.

by River, Hell of the Upside Down Sinners, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 16:47 (1229 days ago) @ Joe I

What did you have at Rose Mary? The Croatian in me is intrigued since the only SoCal Croatian restaurant shut down a couple of years ago.Anti’s in San Pedro.

ok, so 4 of us had the following, family style:

by Joe I @, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 17:10 (1229 days ago) @ River

Coal roasted beets
Baby octopus ‘peka style’
Stracciatella (think insides of burrata)
Lamb ragu mafaldine
Rigatoni (w/ peas, mint, butter)
Crni risotto (squid, lobster broth)
Cevapi (skinless sausages)
Grilled chicken wings (/ Calabrian vinaigrette)

It wasn’t noted which were Croatian, but the names/ingredients probably give it away. Seriously, not a single dish was less than outstanding.

Mouth watering!

by River, Hell of the Upside Down Sinners, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 17:42 (1229 days ago) @ Joe I

Definitely some Bosnian and Serbian influences on those dishes. But, I can, unfortunately, eat my weight in Cevapi. Was the Crni black squid? Truly one of my all time favorite dishes!

Not jealous at al. Nope.

Yes indeed!

by Joe I @, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 18:09 (1229 days ago) @ River

Squid ink galore.
[image]

As a native Chicagoan, I salute every assessment except

by Jack @, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 12:40 (1229 days ago) @ Joe

the obviously wrong comment about ketchup on a hot dog and that if you go to Portillo’s, you should order either the Italian beef or the Maxwell Street Polish anyway.

But have you ever had better fries than at Portillo’s?

One note for future reference re: Giordano’s vs Lou Malnati’s: never go to Giordano’s in the suburbs. I have no idea why, but they aren’t even close to being as good as the Giordano’s in the city. Whereas Lou Malnati’s is pretty consistent.

I've had around 1000 fries better than Portillos.

by Joe ⌂ @, North Endzone Goal Line, Thursday, September 30, 2021, 06:57 (1227 days ago) @ Jack

Which is not to say they're terrible (it's not In-N-Out, whose fries objectively suck) but they're nothing particularly impressive in my mind. They're fine.

Portillo's fries are their weakness. Frozen out of a bag and

by BillyGoat, At Thanksgiving with Joe Bethersontin, Wednesday, September 29, 2021, 07:28 (1228 days ago) @ Jack

often soggy.

You can get fresh cut and better seasoned fries at ton of places now. Portillo's dogs and sandwiches aren't good enough to make up that difference.

They're fine if you get them piping hot

by Jeremy (WeIsND), Offices of Babip Pecota Vorp & Eckstein, Wednesday, September 29, 2021, 11:01 (1228 days ago) @ BillyGoat

But if they sit for more than 5 minutes, cold and sogginess hits hard.

Red Hot Ranch has better fries than Portillos - twice fried

by Frank, Wednesday, September 29, 2021, 06:59 (1228 days ago) @ Jack
edited by Frank, Wednesday, September 29, 2021, 07:34

https://www.redhotranchchicago.com/our-menu/

Followed by Dear Margaret - French Canadian and Midwest: https://www.dearmargaretchi.com/

and Mr D's Shish-ka-bob(great steak sandwich) 6656 W. Diversey

https://www.google.com/maps/uv?pb=!1s0x880fcb73b25b1af5%3A0x58426e20a088a61b!3m1!7e115!...

+100

by Tim, Chicago, IL, Wednesday, September 29, 2021, 07:31 (1228 days ago) @ Frank

- No text -

Glad you liked Elizabeth!

by MattG, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 09:40 (1229 days ago) @ Joe

And North Pond. And Tobolobampo! Man, you hit a lot of the places in my recommendation post. If they had let you down I'd be personally responsible. (I hadn't seen your original response that you'd gotten these reservations!)

Elizabeth's exterior is so sketchy it's almost a joke. It's on Western, a super busy street, in a completely non-descript strip mall next to a tire place. It has no external markings to speak of, I thought I was walking into the wrong place.

And then you walk in and their world famous chef is just hanging out RIGHT THERE in the open kitchen and it's just so cool. Was Iliana Regan there on your night?

I think North Pond gets their 1 star b/c of ambiance, and maybe Elizabeth doesn't get a second star for the same reason :)


As for pizza - there are a lot of discussions on this point, but the only deep dish worth a damn in my opinion is Pequods, and for all other pizza styles Art of Pizza has just dominated the scene and lapped the competition since they arrived in the early aughts.

You guys are making me nostalgic

by Regular Joseph @, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 14:11 (1229 days ago) @ MattG

I lived 2 blocks from Elizabeths when I first moved to Chicago. It wasn't there at the time, but I mean, Chicago is great. Neighborhoods are real.

Feel like we have the discussion annually but yes on Pequods

by Domer99, John Wesley Powell's Expedition Island, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 13:07 (1229 days ago) @ MattG

- No text -

She wasn't, unfortunately.

by Joe ⌂ @, North Endzone Goal Line, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 11:40 (1229 days ago) @ MattG

Probably hanging out in Michigan at her cabin.

But...right!?...on the exterior of Elizabeth. I was worried we'd shown up at the wrong place, too. But you open it up and bam, there you go. We had the table right next to the kitchen, so it was super fun to watch them work. Their pastry chef was pretty awesome too.

As far as stars - that was kind of the question for me. Elizabeth and North Pond both sitting at 1 star seemed a bit off, especially given that the gap between 1-2 star generally feels smaller than the gap between 2-3 star. Both were very good, but I think Elizabeth is a cut above in terms of what it brought to the table.

I'll admit that I have strong feelings about pizza - and I think LA and SD are exceptional pizza cities. Next time I'm in Chicago I'll have to try Art of Pizza, though!

One other thing Chicago had that I haven't been able to find in LA yet is a good Chinese 燒烤 place, kind of street barbecue/skewers. It's not perfect, but Friend (or Friendship?) BBQ in Chinatown definitely hit the spot.

Her Michigan place is an interesting concept.

by MattG, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 12:17 (1229 days ago) @ Joe

It's like a restaurant camp in the middle of the woods in the upper peninsula.

Basically it's $1800-2500, and you stay at their cabin or one of their airstreams for a weekend. It's only open during certain months.

Iliana makes dinner on Friday and a massive tasting menu on Saturday dinner, and also lunch Saturday and breakfast Sunday.

It seems to be completely sold out through 2022 and 2023.

I desperately want to get up there for our anniversary in early July some year, but it appears to be the most difficult reservation on the planet. You basically have to stalk their instagram and buy the second it gets posted. Guess I'll try to get 2024.

Regan has said that once the Milkweed Inn is paying all the bills, she's closing Elizabeth. That would be a shame, honestly.

I had never heard of her, her restaurant, or her inn until

by BillyGoat, At Thanksgiving with Joe Bethersontin, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 13:38 (1229 days ago) @ MattG

these threads. Now, I'm hooked. I'll have to get down to Elizabeth at some point soon.

So, thanks, Joe, for coming to Chicago so that this information hit the message board.

Elizabeth doesn't make any money

by Mike (bart), Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 12:24 (1229 days ago) @ MattG

Iliana was going to partner with us on Guild Row once upon a time. In like the second meeting she was there with her lawyer and basically had a nervous breakdown saying "I'm sorry I just have no idea how to make money with a restaurant!" I looked at some of her books and they were wild. Like $1.50 per egg and stuff - but man is it good.

Anyway, I think the whole crisis ended up really clarifying for her as she has more than cracked the code of how to take her amazing knowledge and reputaiton and monetize it in better ways than running a restaurant.

Ha - She's too cool for that entire business side

by MattG, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 12:41 (1229 days ago) @ Mike (bart)
edited by MattG, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 20:18

Who has time to figure out how the business works!

The last time I was at Elizabeth was quite a few years ago, on a special night when the menu was based on Game of Thrones (The show was in its 1st or 2nd season, I think.)

She introduced each course by citing the specific passages, with book/page numbers, where GRRM talked about food and how that inspired the course. I think the fish course was called "The Drowned God".

Afterwards we got to meet her and take some photos and meet her. She's such a charismatic superstar person, with those sleeves of tats. Just such a presence.

This Tribune article from 2019 is right when she was closing Kitsune and closing Bunny and leaving Elizabeth to start Milkweed - seems like she needed to get away from the 1-woman show.

https://www.chicagotribune.com/dining/ct-food-iliana-regan-memoir-0710-20190702-zsoniet...

what's on your SD pizza list

by Jay @, San Diego, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 11:58 (1229 days ago) @ Joe

- No text -

Bronx and Landini's were neighborhood go-to's for me.

by MHB (Rakes of Mallow), Chicago, IL, United States, Earth-199999, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 18:28 (1229 days ago) @ Jay

Got Isola's once when back in town and it was very good. The Mr. Moto in North Park is solid, URBN is fine if you can ignore the club vibe and had take out from Tribute right before the pandemic, which was excellent (but also I was very drunk). Berkeley is junk.

Wife works at Scripps. They always have 'regents pizza'

by hobbs, San Diego, CA, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 14:23 (1229 days ago) @ Jay

laying around. Its really good. Been planning to stop there one day when we carpool.

I texted you about one...Ambrogio 15?

by Joe ⌂ @, North Endzone Goal Line, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 13:56 (1229 days ago) @ Jay

That place is absurdly good.

Others that also hit well (I'm including the entire SD area FWIW):
1. Blue Ribbon (this one is in Encinitas)
2. Tribute Pizza
3. Isola Pizza Bar

Can't go wrong with any of those, in my mind.

Love Blue Ribbon

by BPH, San Diego, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 14:18 (1229 days ago) @ Joe

Leucadia, mentioned by Jay below, is one of our favorites as well. A new discovery is Amalfi Cucina Italiana in San Marcos, specializing in Neapolitan style.

Jay, have you tried Buona Forchetta in South Park? They've expanded to the growing North City development in San Marcos, but I haven't made it there yet.

Buona Forchetta is great

by Jay @, San Diego, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 14:22 (1229 days ago) @ BPH

That whole little pocket neighborhood has some cool spots. There's a good cocktail bar across the street, Kindred.

Round Table, obviously

by BPH, San Diego, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 13:36 (1229 days ago) @ Jay

- No text -

You had me looking...

by PMan @, The Banks of the Spokane River, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 13:53 (1229 days ago) @ BPH

to see if I could find interior shots of the Round Table Pizza on Mira Mesa Blvd. in the late 1970s and early 1980s, about the time it was the go-to place for Little League and soccer post-game feasts and post-season banquets.

Alas, no.

It was English Tudor Revival inside, with dark-stained oak sculpted panels and walls, and dark wood bench booths, and dusky as a cave inside lit only by the parlor-style, red stained glass domed light fixtures hanging over the tables.

two family joints near us

by Jay @, San Diego, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, 13:43 (1229 days ago) @ BPH

D'Lish and Pizzo's are both pretty good if you're in south county.

Lefty's in North Park touts Chicago style. I like it.

Leucadia is solid.

Pizza Port is okay.

Berkeley downtown is overrated and sloppy.

There's a NY style slice place downtown (stand only) that is really good after sixteen beers at Petco.

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