Looking for some input on Ireland for 2020.
by KGB, Belly o. the Beast, Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 14:59 (1879 days ago)
I'm starting to map out a trip for the game in Dublin next fall. The plan would be to take about two weeks, rent a car and work my way around the country (along with gf and possibly a couple others), making stops for about two days at a time in Airbnbs or similar. My initial thought would be a path along the general lines of Dublin -> Waterford/Cork -> Dingle -> Galway -> Donegal -> Belfast -> Dublin, but the only hard date is obviously the game itself on Saturday 8/29. I picked up some great stuff from a thread here earlier in the fall but I think it was mostly focused on the western coast. My priorities would be beautiful sights, historic, castles, pubs, distilleries, maybe a little golf, and I am super fucking averse to tour buses. If you guys have any input based on your experiences about what to definitely see or skip, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.
Tags:
travel
I appreciate all the input, everyone
by KGB, Belly o. the Beast, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 16:05 (1878 days ago) @ KGB
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Speaking of
by HullieAndMikes, Yelling at Sam Cane, Dunedin, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 10:06 (1878 days ago) @ KGB
Music was the other topic I forgot to mention.
by KGB, Belly o. the Beast, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 12:09 (1878 days ago) @ HullieAndMikes
In Dublin or elsewhere. Definitely a priority.
Don't know Ireland but a good buddy from Ireland suggests:
by Grantland, y'allywood, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:34 (1878 days ago) @ KGB
edited by Grantland, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:44
Fly into Dublin
find the pubs but some general recs:
N from Dublin hit bushmills (protestants again - ;) and the Giant's causeway;
Portrush GC and Titanic museum - Belfast;
over to Donegal and down to Galway (great city he says and it happens to be my own Ireland ancestry);
cliffs of moher in clare and Lahinch G.C.;
He will recommend B&Bs if you like.
says swinggolfireland.com for tee times.
Portrush the town is nice, but Portrush the golf course is
by Jack , Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:38 (1878 days ago) @ Grantland
edited by Jack, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:45
private. Don't expect to play there unless you know a member or have "pull".
But yes, the town is a very good base. We stayed there for 2 days. Your basic seaside resort town and free from sectarianism. I also highly recommend the Harbor Bar.
You can take a hop on, hop off bus from there to the major Antrim coast sites that aren't far away (Giant's Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Bushmill's, Carrick-a-rede, Raithlin Island, Ballintoy, etc.), and it's much easier than trying to find parking at those places.
Some thoughts
by Bryan (IrishCavan), Howth Castle and Environs, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 07:46 (1878 days ago) @ KGB
With the realization that you won't be able to do everything (and some of it you likely won't want to do but you may have someone in your group who does. Anyway, here are some things to do:
Dublin: Kilmaihham Gaol, Collins Barracks, Guinness Storehouse, Jameson, Teeling Distillery, General Post Office Museum, Writers Museum, Trinity College (if you do the Book of Kells, go early), Croke Park/GAA tour.
-check out Temple Bar area, Grafton St., St. Stephen's Green, Christ Church Cathedral -- there is a good farmer's market in Temple Bar where you can get some really good food.
-best pint in Dublin is Kehoe's. Others pubs to see: Brazen Head, Long Hall, Stag's head, Porterhouse (craft beer), L Mulligan Grocer (craft beer).
--outside of Dublin, Glendalough and Malahide Castle are both fairly close.
I lived in Waterford one summer -- unless you are into Viking or medieval history, there's not much there other than Waterford Crystal. You would not be far from Hook Lighthouse, where Strongbow landed, or from Wexford, where a major part of the 1798 revolution took place (see Vinegar Hill and the museum).
If you go from Waterford to Cork, there are some cool little villages along the way -- Dunmore East, Dungarvan, Youghal -- avoid Tramore. Or you can head up to Cashel to see the Rock of Cashel and Cahir Castle, both in Tipperary.
Cork -- avoid Blarney Castle but definitely go to the English Market -- some of the best smoked salmon and black pudding is sold there. Cohb (pronounced Cove) is not far from there and is a cool little village where many emigrants sailed to the US. There is a nice little museum there as well, but I think some of it is devoted to the Titanic (the bigger Titanic museum is in Belfast -- not my thing but some people are into that). You're more likely to see Murphy's rather than Guinness in Cork.
Next would be to either do the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsula. Be ready to see a ton of tour buses, especially on the Ring. If you go to Dingle, check out the Distillery there. It is mostly known for great pubs with Irish music – O’Faherty’s and Dick Mack’s are a couple I would recommend.
I would avoid going to Tralee or Limerick as you head toward Galway. If you want to play golf, Adare Manor has a nice course. If you want to see the Cliffs or Moher and/or go to the Aran Islands, you can do that along the way (also Ballybunion or Lahinch are roughly along the way…2 of the best courses in Ireland). You can also visit Bunratty Castle, but I would avoid their hokey dinner program.
Galway is one of my favorite cities in the world. The Spanish arches, Quay St., the Latin Quarter, Salthill, Galway Bay – just walking around Galway and stopping various pubs along the way to hear music. Tig Coili, Tigh Neactain, Roisin Dubh, Dew Drop Inn, Bierhaus – some of my favorite pubs. Moran’s, outside of Galway, is a great place for Oysters, seafood, and a Pint.
After Galway, there are some towns you might want to consider – Clifden, Westport, Cong (if anyone is into the Quiet Man) – but just driving through Connemara and then doing some things along the Atlantic – the scenery is incredible. You’ll see mountains, cliffs, fjords, streams.
Northern Ireland – the coast is beautiful and it has some incredible golf. I would check out Derry – the City Walls, the Peace Bridge, Bloody Sunday Memorial – if you are interested in the history.
Belfast – Black Taxi tour and the murals, Peace Walls, Titanic museum (if someone is into that), St. George’s Market, Crumlin Road Gaol, -- best pubs are Kelly’s Cellars, Crown Bar, White’s Tavern, Harp Bar. You are not far from doing a trip to Bushmill’s, Carick-a-Rede rope bridge, Giant’s Causeway. Also, Royal Portrush is a great course.
Obviously, you won’t be able to do all of this, but it gives you some options. If you have any questions, email me at bmcgover at Kennesaw dot edu
Tags:
travel
Very well done, lad. I agree with most all
by GuinnessBob, The Dark Hedges, Friday, December 20, 2019, 01:36 (1878 days ago) @ Bryan (IrishCavan)
edited by GuinnessBob, Friday, December 20, 2019, 01:45
I did the Ring of Kerry tour twice with relatives (in three weeks time - ugh!) and I wish to never see that Red Fox Inn ever again. Too many tourist buses so I would stay clear of the Ring of Kerry and simply drive around the Dingle peninsula, which is more beautiful imo.
Also, if you're going near Cork, you must stop in Kinsale. It's like the little Irish town you dream a little Irish town must be like. It's so perfectly painted and quaint that I'm honestly not sure if it's real.
Also, in Dublin, you can head south to Dun Laoghaire on the Dart or a 15 min drive to an enjoyable Sunday farmer's market if you have a chance. It's a nice park-like respite from the city.
Completely agree about the Ring of Kerry and Dingle.
by Bryan (IrishCavan), Howth Castle and Environs, Friday, December 20, 2019, 04:48 (1877 days ago) @ GuinnessBob
I haven't done the Ring of Kerry in 10 years, so I imagine it has gotten worse with tour buses. But if you do it, have lunch at the Point in Cahersiveen.
Great stuff -- thanks so much, Bryan
by KGB, Belly o. the Beast, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 16:00 (1878 days ago) @ Bryan (IrishCavan)
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Do GAA teams play then?
by HullieAndMikes, Yelling at Sam Cane, Dunedin, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:39 (1878 days ago) @ Bryan (IrishCavan)
I’m not familiar with their schedule, but I once watched hurling from a hillside on the west coast and it was quite beautiful. Croke Park is of course a good place to watch too.
Rugby isn’t in season then, otherwise I’d advocate catching a game at Thomond Park in Limerick.
Would definitely be interested in catching another sport
by KGB, Belly o. the Beast, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 12:07 (1878 days ago) @ HullieAndMikes
depending on what's in season at the time. Had a few people tell me that the hurling they saw was better than the football game.
Hurling is supremely fun to watch
by ndbk32 , Los Angeles, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 15:57 (1878 days ago) @ KGB
My uncle took me to a couple Offaly matches at Croke Park back in '95. The hurling on the pitch was top-flight stuff. But the swearing in the stands... simply elite in its color and invention.
last time, the day after the Navy game
by Jay , San Diego, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:54 (1878 days ago) @ HullieAndMikes
we went to Croke for the GAA football semifinal between Mayo and Dublin. Assuming the football schedule is still in the same season it might be worth keeping an eye on.
My guess would be they will try and schedule something
by HullieAndMikes, Yelling at Sam Cane, Dunedin, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:59 (1878 days ago) @ Jay
Even if it’s of the exhibition variety. It’s possible Leinster would be playing a rugby preseason friendly around the same time in Dublin but they won’t release that schedule until the summer.
last year's football final was on 9/1 at Croke
by Jay , San Diego, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 10:06 (1878 days ago) @ HullieAndMikes
Did they shift it for 2020? If not, good chance there will be a match at Croke on Navy weekend.
My mistake, the semis were in mid-August
by Jack , Thursday, December 19, 2019, 11:39 (1878 days ago) @ Jay
Interestingly, the football final this year ended in a draw (Dublin vs Kerry), and by rule they replayed the entire game 2 weeks later (Dublin won. Again).
I guess there's no such thing as overtime in the GAA?
No. All Ireland finals are mid-August for both sports
by Jack , Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:46 (1878 days ago) @ HullieAndMikes
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From Kerry to Clare take the Killimer-Tarbert ferry
by Jack , Thursday, December 19, 2019, 08:53 (1878 days ago) @ Bryan (IrishCavan)
edited by Jack, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:13
It's a very big timesaver. Otherwise you have to drive around the mouth of the Shannon all the way to Limerick. You mention Bunratty Castle, though. That's between Limerick and Ennis (just outside Shannon airport), so if you want to see that, you're essentially going to Limerick.
In Galway, great pub list, and Tig Coili is my new favorite pub. Terrific place for traditional music. Also the King's Head and The Quays are good pubs.
In Belfast, we took a black cab tour and it was outstanding. Not to be missed. The first thing the driver told us was how and where his brother was shot and killed by the UVF in 1970. You can imagine the rest of the narrative from there. It was absolutely riveting.
Lastly, I spent the most time of any previous trip in my ancestral home of County Mayo (especially where my grandfather grew up on the north shore of the Killary). It is the most underrated county on the west coast in my humble and admittedly biased opinion. And the transformation of Westport from pretty dreary town on my first trip in 1981 to one of the fun towns in Ireland now is a metaphor for the transformation much of the country, and especially Mayo in that time. In '81 it was still largely "Mayo, God help us" - my relatives there only got electricity in 1979 - and now it's as prosperous as anywhere in the country.
My top 10 Dublin pubs:
by HCE, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 07:19 (1878 days ago) @ KGB
1. Kehoes
2. The Brazen Head
3. O'Donoghue's
4. Doheny & Nesbitt
5. The Bleeding Horse
6. The Stag's Head
7. The Duke
8. The Flowing Tide
9. O'Neill's
10. McDaids
Other than The Brazen Head, these are all in city centre, walking distance from St. Stephen's Green. I omitted the whole of Temple Bar--while there's fun to be had there, I'm guessing that it isn't really your kind of place. I also omitted pubs outside the city, but there are some nice places out by Joyce's snotgreen sea, if you're inclined to venture out to the coastal suburbs.
Great list HCE. I like all those pubs but would add a couple
by GuinnessBob, The Dark Hedges, Friday, December 20, 2019, 01:59 (1878 days ago) @ HCE
JW Sweetman on the Liffey. Find yourself a nook and cranny down some black custard with friends.
If you're near the canal, The Barge is a great pub. Like you're on a ship.
A block further south in the Rathmines, Blackbird is a cool spot. Nice beer garden and great selection of craft beers.
Also, agree with Jay on Devitt's. Barely away from tourists. Just refurbished the bar two years ago. And good music upstairs if you're lucky.
Also, a fan of Kehoe's like most. But I believe the Literary Pub Crawls starts there. I enjoyed the Crawl personally, but the bar may be too touristy.
bless you
by KGB, Belly o. the Beast, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 12:24 (1878 days ago) @ HCE
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Your top 3 are my top 3
by Jack , Thursday, December 19, 2019, 08:48 (1878 days ago) @ HCE
On Temple Bar, in August was the first time I'd gone there since it became what it has become - my first 3 times in Dublin were back when Temple Bar was just a single pub and it was just a regular street, and the next time in Dublin in the 90's we didn't get to that area.
But there are some very good pubs there, I have to say. We went for dinner one night to The Old Storehouse Bar (Crown Alley off Temple Bar) and it was worthy of the the ones on your list.
are you familiar with Devitt's on Camden
by Jay , San Diego, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 07:57 (1878 days ago) @ HCE
Local joint. Trad music upstairs on certain nights, mostly made up of musicians and buskers who finish gigs earlier in the evening elsewhere and then converge on Devitt's to keep it rolling.
Yeah, that's another good one
by HCE, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 08:34 (1878 days ago) @ Jay
Honestly, there are so many nice pubs in Dublin that it might be easier to list the shitty ones: avoid pubs that charge a cover, pubs with lines to get in, and Copper Face Jacks (though everyone should experience it at least once before they turn 25).
Apparently the Turk’s Head still exists
by HullieAndMikes, Yelling at Sam Cane, Dunedin, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 09:38 (1878 days ago) @ HCE
Simultaneously one of the worst bars/nightclubs ever and probably one of the most authentic expressions of late Celtic Tiger youth culture.
Near Glesnevin
by Bryan (IrishCavan), Howth Castle and Environs, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 07:51 (1878 days ago) @ HCE
The Gravediggers and Bang Bang are both in my top 10, but that's a drive from City Center.
Gravediggers is excellent
by Pat, in the cloud, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 11:13 (1878 days ago) @ Bryan (IrishCavan)
edited by Pat, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 11:20
The folks on my team in the Dublin office swear by it as their favorite pint in/around the City. It was indeed a great place for a drink (and dinner was pretty solid too)
I also loved hanging out at Hacienda Bar. There really aren't any signs. You ring a buzzer and the bartender/owner comes to the door, sizes you up, and lets you in if he's ok with you. Inside is small and dark and quiet with two small side rooms for pool. Cash only. I was definitely the only American in the place. Definitely not your vision of an "Irish Pub" but a great place nonetheless.
McDaids is criminally underrated
by DEM, Chicago, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 07:23 (1878 days ago) @ HCE
if only because of its proximity to the Phil Lynotte statue.
Any pub that was good enough for Behan and Flann O'Brien
by HCE, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 07:44 (1878 days ago) @ DEM
is good enough for me. It's also supposedly where Joyce's "Grace" begins--not the most appealing of images, perhaps, but one really shouldn't visit Dublin without drinking with the ghosts of its drunken writers.
A word to the wise
by DEM, Chicago, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 07:12 (1878 days ago) @ KGB
Ireland is not a huge place and while it has made strides over the past 10/20/30 years....big events can gum up the works a bit.
As my brother, an extensive and notably unflappable traveler, lamented upon arriving a few days before the 2012 games ...."the whole island is overbooked".
With that it mind I would zig where others zag. I'm not saying to forgo the cliffs of Moher, just don't make it a focus as its going to be very crowded out there in the leadup to the game.
You mention golf. My favorite course in Ireland is Waterville on the far western edge of the Ring of Kerry. Not that week though as it will be overrun. If I was going to tell you play a course that week I would point you to Enniscrone up in Sligo. Its a fantastic course and you'll be playing it w/o the hordes (along these lines also you may want to pick up Tom Coyne's book A walk called Ireland and focus in on his chapters on the north and west).
You mention distilleries and certainly the Jameson tour is fun but you'll get the same crowds that week. While it is famously the protestant whiskey, the Bushmill's tour is also good and The Busmills Inn is a very cool, very British Oasis in NI. Its a good base to see Giants causeway, Dunluce Castle, Royal Portrush (which will be thronged because of the recent Open) and PortStewart (which is a great course nearby that will be comparatively empty).
One last thing as a proud son of Wexford....I find the south and east of Ireland to be the lest interesting part. North and west is the best. To Hell or Connaught.
"Wild Atlantic Way"
by Jack , Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 16:11 (1879 days ago) @ KGB
edited by Jack, Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 16:24
The Irish tourist board has done a great job promoting the west coast from Cork all the way around up to Donegal.
It's really good. Here's the website:
https://www.ireland.com/en-us/articles/wild-atlantic-way/
The route is marked on signs as well. There is one hell of a lot to see, so pick your spots carefully and save some things for the next trip.
Also, having been to the North for the first time in August, the north coast is pretty damn spectacular, too. And here's the website for that.
https://discovernorthernireland.com/about-northern-ireland/destinations/causeway/causew...
northernireland.com is a great website all around.
Here's the Belfast part. By the way, the Cathedral District will help you forget your troubles and forget there were Troubles. Unlike some notable other parts of Belfast. But Belfast is not Dublin or Galway. It's an interesting place, but gritty. We were there for a day and a half and that was plenty. By the way, the very popular Titanic Museum, kind of the post-Troubles coming out party of previously non-existent Belfast tourism, is more about the building of the ship than its sinking. Which I thought was fine.
https://discovernorthernireland.com/about-northern-ireland/destinations/belfast/belfast/
Note on the golf
by Jeremy (WeIsND), Offices of Babip Pecota Vorp & Eckstein, Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 15:40 (1879 days ago) @ KGB
Many of the best courses are on the west coast, so if you were looking to hit any of the big boys, you'd have to go pretty far out of the way.
Which isn't to say that you'd have trouble finding courses in and around Dublin. I'm sure there are plenty there.
I agree.
by Irish96, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 04:24 (1879 days ago) @ Jeremy (WeIsND)
We went to Ireland for my brother's bachelor party 19 years ago. We flew into Shannon and had our own private bus (about 20 guys) and played 4 courses. Waterville, Lahinch, Tralee, and Ballybunion. We had a blast. If you want any info, I'd be happy to provide it, my friend.
Wow.
by KGB, Belly o. the Beast, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 12:02 (1878 days ago) @ Irish96
That sounds like an incredible bachelor party trip. The main reason that I said "maybe" golf is that there's a decent chance that I'm the only one along for the ride who actually plays. Figure I could get away with a round but maybe not any more than that.
Which of the ones you played was your favorite?
It was an awesome trip
by Irish96, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 14:49 (1878 days ago) @ KGB
and surprisingly enough, it wasn't all that costly. Out of the 4 courses, I probably enjoyed Ballybunion the most. They were all great though. We flew out of Newark on a wednesday night and landed in Shannon on Thursday morning.
Our private bus and driver picked us up at the airport and drove us straight to Lahinch for a round of 18. My brothers, one other guy, and me were the last foursome of 6 to tee off, and that gave us a good hour to eat some breakfast and drink Guinness while we waited. We stayed at a bed and breakfast for 3 nights and it was incredibly nice and affordable.
Most golf courses don't offer carts. Of the 4 we played, only Waterville did.
I was zapped after the first round at Lahinch due to the air travel, minimal sleep on the plane, hilly terrain, and the 4-5 Guinness that I put away pre-round.
If I had to rank the courses, I'd say:
1. Ballybunion
2. Waterville
3. Tralee
4. Lahinch
Tralee might have been number 2 but it was our last round before heading to the airport and it was raining all day. It was designed by Arnold Palmer and it's a great layout. 4 days of golf and hard partying at night led to sleeping like a baby on the flight home.
excellent - thanks!
by KGB, Belly o. the Beast, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 16:04 (1878 days ago) @ Irish96
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quick tip: grab a Dublin hotel now
by Jay , San Diego, Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 15:15 (1879 days ago) @ KGB
A lot of them are booked up already.
good call - thx
by KGB, Belly o. the Beast, Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 15:38 (1879 days ago) @ Jay
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You might have better luck checking out hotels near
by Bryan (IrishCavan), Howth Castle and Environs, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 05:45 (1878 days ago) @ KGB
Parnell Square. It is across the River Liffey on the North side, but Dublin is really easy to get around. Hotels near Parnell are typically less expensive.
I'll respond to your post above when I get the chance.
Easy to get around because of one fairly recent invention
by Jack , Thursday, December 19, 2019, 06:58 (1878 days ago) @ Bryan (IrishCavan)
edited by Jack, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 07:10
The Global Positioning Sensor. I drove there equipped with a GPS for the first time in August and it was whole different and infinitely more pleasant experience that in the past taking wrong turns and going around in circles.
Back when you had to navigate by map, it was decidedly not easy, because there isn't a straight street in the whole dang town, the streets change names every few blocks, and a hell of a lot of them are one way.
It's like driving in Boston, but fortunately without the Boston drivers.
The one downside now is you don't have to stop your average Irishman or Irishwoman on the street to ask directions, an often unintentionally (on their part) hilarious experience. (Actual conversation with one nice lady: "Ah, you're Americans, isn't that grand? My sister lives in Connect-i-cut, do you know her? . . . " about five minutes later we actually got around to getting the directions. "I'd take ya there meself, but I have to go to work ya know" . . .). It was even better when you'd ask two or more people because they'd start arguing with each other.
I mostly walk or take public transportation.
by Bryan (IrishCavan), Howth Castle and Environs, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 08:20 (1878 days ago) @ Jack
I've never used Uber or Lyft, but buses, LUAS, and DART make it pretty easy to get where you want to go. When walking, as long as you know where you are in relation to the Liffey, I think it is easy to get around the city centre.
It's a great walking city
by Jack , Thursday, December 19, 2019, 08:23 (1878 days ago) @ Bryan (IrishCavan)
And exactly right, you always have the Liffey as a point of reference.
I only drive in and out, leaving the car parked from arrival until departure. Which in point of fact I do in any city if I can.
My favorite was when we were way off course
by Jeff (BGS) , A starter home in suburban Tempe, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 07:52 (1878 days ago) @ Jack
We’d get a hopelessly long, confusing set of directions with an abrupt stop in the middle, “Ah, ya cahn’t get there from here.”
We’d then ask something like, “Can you direct us to a place so where we could get there from there?” and invariably we’d get three easy steps that got us most of the way.
--
At night, the ice weasels come.
It's one of my favorite parts of Ireland
by DEM, Chicago, Thursday, December 19, 2019, 08:06 (1878 days ago) @ Jeff (BGS)
The wildy discursive speaking style.....Ask a direct question, get a hilariously indirect answer. I've found the people of Donegal have taken this to an art form. In the south theyu do it almost with a nod and a wink. In Donegal they are 100% seriously off on a tangent.
Dead on re Donegal
by Jack , Thursday, December 19, 2019, 08:27 (1878 days ago) @ DEM
In August I was there for the first time. I got into a couple of conversations there (in Donegal town) with locals on separate nights and my head hurt, and not just from the Guinness.
If you get shut out or don’t want to stay in Temple bar,
by MattG, Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 22:42 (1879 days ago) @ KGB
A nearby out of town option is the Powerscourt House near Enniskerry. Extremely fancy hotel and grounds/gardens; historic old stuff. Not sure who you’re traveling with but it could be cool.